The ultimate guide to Winton

With links to Waltzing Matilda, Qantas and groundbreaking dinosaur discoveries, there’s much to discover in the small town of Winton.

Flying over Winton in Outback Queensland, all the bush poets we were forced to read in school suddenly make sense. Dusty streets fill with bird calls as the sun begins to rise. This feels like the kind of place that begs you to wake up early – not to avoid the crowds because, with a local population of only 856, there aren’t any – but to sit in contemplative silence before breakfast with a cup of tea in hand and the uninterrupted sounds of nature filling your ears.

It’s what the rest of town does. That is, the rest of town who haven’t woken up even earlier to tend to their farms. They’ll have knocked off by midday, at which point they can be found discussing the day’s results together, beer in hand, in one of five local pubs. But those who don’t need to check on their farms sit on wooden decks in front of front doors that are always unlocked and usually left open to catch a breeze.

Towns this small can sometimes get a reputation for not liking outsiders, but this couldn’t be further from the truth in Winton. I’ve never met a friendlier place, full of smiles and ready to chat.

Getting to Winton

Despite being the original site of Qantas, the most common way to reach Winton nowadays is to drive. For some, that means driving two hours in a rental car from the closest airport at Longreach. For others, that means a grand adventure across Australia, probably in a caravan. Either way, it’s a long, straight, beautiful drive. This is Big Sky Country, where vast stretches of blue are only interrupted by cloud patterns and the surrounding land is home to both cattle and emu farms.

The other option, if you’re already in the Sunshine State, is by rail. A Spirit of the Outback train carries travellers on the 26-hour journey from Brisbane to Longreach, where they can then jump on the rail bus from Longreach airport out to Winton. However, Queensland Rail connects most of Queensland.

Things to do in Winton

1. Festival of Outback Opera

Winton might not be an obvious choice to see the opera, but the annual Festival of Outback Opera (held in May) is one of the most magical experiences you’ll ever have. When I arrived, it was just beginning, meaning an influx of people that can barely be sustained by a town this size. But Winton not only manages, but locals embrace this festival and what it gives the town with a passion that – I’m not exaggerating when I say – brings grown, tough countrymen and women to tears. I watched it happen.

Featuring a range of Queensland’s new and established opera singers, a range of events invites guests to sample all the opera is, but in accessible, bite-sized portions. The two culminating events of the festival are Dark Sky Serenade held under the twinkling night sky of the Australian Age of Dinosaurs museum, and Singing in the Night in the picturesque Camden Park Station. Both feature a mix of performers sharing their renditions of popular opera tunes with a breathtaking natural backdrop. Both are genuinely moving experiences, absolutely worth timing your trip for.

2. Winton dinosaur experiences

Australia was never a place connected with dinosaurs until the discovery of a fossilised footprint on Cork Station in 1962 changed all that. It wasn’t the first proof of dinosaurs found in Australia, but after continuing exploration of the area found over 3300 footprints in what was clear evidence of a dinosaur stampede, it was the most significant.

Those same footprints are still on display today at Lark Quarry, a 1.5-hour drive out of Winton. There’s a small cafe and shop on-site, but fill your tank before you head off as there are no more petrol stations and be prepared for unsealed roads. Once there, you can see the footprint yourself as you walk around the boardwalks, or join a 45-minute guided tour to learn more.

Winton’s dinosaur connection didn’t end with footprints, however. In 1999, a 20-30 tonne sauropod (think long necks, long tails, small heads and four thick legs) was discovered on a property just outside of Winton – at the time, it was the largest ever found in Australia. Not long after this more sauropods were discovered (these were from the titanosaurs group, the largest dinosaurs ever on earth) as well as the famous Banjo, the largest known carnivorous dinosaur in Australia.

The man who discovered the original sauropod later built The Age of Dinosaurs museum, overlooking Winton surrounds. Here, you can take a tour to see part of the stampede footprints removed and preserved very carefully on display, plus be shown their fossil collections and fossil preparation laboratory.

3. The Crack Up Sisters

From aerial circus stunts, knockabout clown acts, impressive whip cracking (no really, the sisters have won awards) but a whole lot more gags, a performance by The Crack Up Sisters goes big or goes home. And while they do take their show on the road, they’ve set a permanent home in Winton (see accommodation for how you can prolong your stay there).

Pay $20 for an adult ticket into the ‘Dust Arena’ behind their homestead and let the distinctly Australian tomfoolery begin. It’s an especially good show for kids, but afterwards, you’ll be gifted with a tour of their front yard. It’s essentially a shrine to travelling performance history in this country, and there’s something truly magical about watching a group of adults join in a game of handball or dust off their hoola-hooping skills, giggling all the while.

4. Winton Wetlands

While the majority of Winton and its surrounds is more dust than human, it’s also the site of the very first wetlands outside of the U.S.A. to be named a ‘wetland of distinction’ by the Society Of Wetland Scientists. This 8750-hectare wetland is currently undergoing a restoration project considered to be of international significance.

It’s a beautiful place to visit, with nearly 200 bird species, several native frog species and native tree species calling it home. The trick, however, is that as a seasonal wetlands, it dries and out and fills in according to recent rainfall. So if you’re hoping to get the full lush display it’s a good idea to check local rainfall ahead of time. Although during its dry periods, the wetlands are very much alive and undergoing an important part of its rejuvenation cycle.

5. Waltzing Matilda Centre

While many country towns love to lay dubious claim to being the inspiration for various bush poets and country music artists, Winton has a very real one. Banjo Patterson wrote his most famous poem, Waltzing Matilda, after making a visit to Dagworth Station near Winton in 1895. One of the family members who owned the station, Christina McPherson, started playing an Irish melody, to which Banjo scribbled down a few lyrics to go with it. And the rest is history.

Winton’s current Waltzing Matilda Centre tells this story, and more, about Banjo and the unofficial national anthem he wrote for Australia. In fact, it’s the first museum in the world dedicated to a song. Entry is free, and it’s genuinely quite moving and well-curated. There’s also a small art exhibition and displays diving into the start of Qantas history in Winton.

When you’re done wandering, sit down at the very decent onsite cafe, perfect for enjoying a scone and coffee while pursuing a book of Patterson’s poems just purchased from the gift shop.

6. Boulder opal shopping

Boulder opal is a distinct type of opal found inside large ironstone boulders under the ground. They’re mined nearby in Opalton (no prize for guessing why it was named that), but several stores have popped up along the main street of Winton selling these gems. Whether you’re after an unpolished sliver as a souvenir, or stunning jewellery, you’ll find a range of budgets covered as you do the rounds.

7. Musical fence

Continuing with its creative legacy, Winton is also home to the world’s first permanent musical fence installation. Created by percussionist and composer Graham Leek and commissioned in 2003 by the Queensland Music Festival with the Winton Shire Council, the fence is essentially a giant string instrument connecting fence wires to overhead acoustic resonators.

Right next to the fence is a whole range of ‘found percussion’ instruments, made from scraps and junk. The result is a whole lot of noise that has become a popular attraction for locals and visitors in Winton. In fact, the installation is such a draw that even Australian singer-songwriter Gotye featured a sample of the Musical Fence in his song Eyes Wide Open.

Grab a stick and give this free installation a try. You’ll find it behind the Diamantina Heritage Truck and Machinery Museum near the Industrial Estate.

8. The Royal Theatre

Imagine watching your favourite classic films, popcorn in hand and twinkling stars overhead. That’s what you can look forward to at The Royal Theatre. The theatre was originally built in 1918 by the Evert family, then started back up as a not-for-profit entity in 2018. Run by passionate volunteers and family members, it runs from the end of March to the end of September each year, featuring nostalgic and classic titles.

Where to eat in Winton

1. Winton Hotel

Find classic pub grub meals at Winton Hotel, with hearty portions and fun, friendly and efficient staff. If you’re after a classic steak-and-chips or hearty burger vibe, this is your place.

2. North Gregory Hotel

The North Gregory Hotel is the place where you’ll find local farmers sharing a drink on the colourful outdoor tables from midday when they’ve knocked off for the day. They have, arguably, the most unique menu in town. Although, your classics are still all there. Honestly, though, the dessert menu is reason alone to visit: waffles, old-fashioned apple crumble and an Anzac biccie twist on crème brûlée await.

3. Tattersalls Hotel

Taste a bit of history with a meal at the oldest pub in Winton. Established in 1882 (although it’s undergone a couple of name changes since the beginning) Tattersalls Hotel, the food is mostly predictable pub fare. Locals will rave about the ribs, steak and even a slight twist on the classics: Mediterranean spaghetti.

4. Australian Hotel

Locals will tell you the Australian Hotel is the place for a juicy burger at lunch (and, to be honest, about the only place in town to find a vegetarian meal that isn’t just a bowl of chips) and a tasty pizza for dinner. But there’s also a range of kids’ meals and seafood options – all with a very comforting home-cooked meal vibe. Not to mention the outdoor tables are very cute.

5. Winton Date Farm

Take an easy walk to the edge of town (28 Vindex Street) to discover the spoils of local date growers, Gary and Josie Doak. Starting life as a backyard business, Winton Date Farm now boasts over 100 date trees (with big plans to add more fruits in future) and offers farm tours. Not to mention the tasty treats you can purchase to take home with you (also find these at the local markets).

6. Balamara Bakery

Nothing makes me crave a lamington more than a country town, and Balamara Bakery does not disappoint. Also on offer are stellar apple turnovers, meringues and a good range of pies. For lunch, find fresh fruit salads and hearty wraps. The coffee here is considered the second-best in town.

7. The Lost Poet Coffee Bookstore

It’s hard to believe there’s a hidden gem in a town as small as Winton, yet only those in the know come across The Lost Poet Coffee Bookstore. Widely considered (by locals and those passing through) to be the best coffee in town (they use Byron Bay coffee beans), also find killer sandwiches and cakes. The decor is modern and moody with comfortable lounges inviting you to stay a while, and a good selection of second-hand books for sale.

8. Local markets

On weekends, the main street will often find itself with small pop-up market stalls of locals selling crafts and homemade food items. Do yourself a favour and pick up some (very affordable) kumquat jam.

Winton accommodation

Being a small town, there aren’t a lot of options for accommodation. Most of the year-long, you still won’t have trouble finding a room, but if you’re planning a trip during the Festival of Outback Opera every May you’ll want to book well ahead of time.

Winton motels, hotels and rentals

1. Matilda Motel

Like all Winton motels and hotels, Matilda Motel is basic, clean, affordable and close to the main street of town. With 29 rooms and a location right next door to the Winton Water Park & Pool, it’s a good, family-friendly option.

2. Boulder Opal Motor Inn

When I say the Boulder Opal Motor Inn is slightly out of town, I still mean it’s just a 15-minute walk to the main drag. They also have a few snacks to buy from the lobby and very decent meals in the restaurant, a pool and a nice big front lawn area to sit and watch the birds in the morning.

3. Winton Outback Motel

Winton Outback Motel is another great option, with spacious rooms. They’re also very helpful when it comes to accommodating late arrivals, and an easy stroll into the main centre of town.

4. Australian Hotel

Find six air-conditioned cabins on-site at the Australian Hotel, with more room for families or larger groups and a small number of hotel rooms above the pub. It’s exactly what you’d expect from classic Aussie pub accommodation, and it doesn’t get more central for a Winton stay than at one of the three hotels around town.

5. Winton Hotel

Recently renovated rooms above the pub make for a comfortable stay at Winton Hotel. Find double- and single-bed rooms with shared facilities, as well as a laundromat on site (very handy for the long-term road tripper. Chances are you’ll cross paths with owners Jo and Kev, who are just as welcoming as the rest of their staff. In fact, you’re probably better off calling them to book your room.

Find modern, comfortable hotel rooms with their own private ensuites above the pub at North Gregory Hotel. Or book one of 15 unpowered van sites out the back. Either way, you’ll have access to the hotel’s laundromat, showers, wi-fi, and other facilities.

7. Rangelands Outback Camp

For travellers hoping to find retreat vibes a little out of town (but still only a seven-minute drive), Rangelands Outback Camp is calling. Located on a working cattle property, this glamping camp is adult-only and limits numbers to just 12 guests at once.

Sitting at the top of a jump-up on the 53,935 square kilometre Rangelands Station, the camp combines incredible views of the outback with luxury digs (ensuite and outdoor rain shower, anyone?). As for food, an on-site gourmet chef uses local produce to elevate classic outback dishes. Book ahead of time to join their 4WD and scenic flight tours exploring local dinosaur sites, boulder opal mines and national park.

8. The Crack Up Sister’s House

One of the most unique acts in town has also recently become one of its most unique Airbnbs. Heck, it might even be the most unique in Australia. The story goes, travelling performers The Crack Up Sisters saw a half-demolished house on the main street of Winton and thought it was so funny they needed to set up a permanent base. The house was made whole with parts donated by locals.

The result is a perfectly adorable mish-mash of doors, furniture and wall hangings. And the garden is a heart-warming tribute to the history of travelling performance culture in Australia.

9. Cottage on Cork

Named for its central location on Cork Street, Cottage On Cork offers four different self-contained cottages that sleep between two and six people.

10. Cobb Lane

This Winton guesthouse is a clean, reliable bed and breakfast with a wardrobe for unpacking, free private parking and free wifi. The friendly hosts are very happy to give guests local insights into their town, plus their dogs make for a great welcome wagon.

Winton caravan parks

1. Winton Roadhouse Cabins & Caravan Park

With a range of lawn tent sites, powered campsites and self-contained cabins that between them can accommodate couples, families and even larger groups, Winton Roadhouse Cabins & Caravan Park is a solid option. There’s plenty of space to stretch your legs and a pool and other shared amenities. There’s even nightly entertainment by bush poet, Gregory North, during peak tourist season (we saw him performing Banjo Paterson and he was very captivating).

2. The Pelican Caravan Park

Find pet-friendly, powered caravan sites with access to free laundry, barbeque facilities and camp kitchen, as well as newly refurbished cabins with fully equipped kitchens at The Pelican Caravan Park.

3. Winton Wanderers Caravan Park

Experienced caravan road trippers will know why Winton Wanderers Caravan Park‘s fully drive-through sites are exciting. Find 80 powered sites set on 100 acres of land with plenty of shade-making trees, and access to shared toilet and shower blocks and a laundry. It’s a little off the main beat, but only by a couple of minutes’ drive.

4. Tattersalls Hotel

Tattersalls Hotel has a large, grassy area out the back for van parking. The site includes shared amenities and even a complimentary laundry service. Its proximity to the pub is always a plus.

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